The year 2018 has had an exciting run in fashion. Designers, at least internationally, decided to walk the talk. Diversity, questioning standards of beauty and even the #MeToo movement were mirrored on runways that were as much about showcasing opinion as about fashion.
Year 2019 will also be when marginal conversations in Indian fashion start taking centre stage, says Jaspreet Chandok, vice-president and head of fashion, IMG Reliance. There’s investor interest in scaling up designer brands and more investment is expected. Retail, too, continues to change its tack to become the place where the consumer experiences a brand in a more holistic way. Ecommerce & Instagram will help scale up young designer businesses faster.
Designer Gaurav Gupta puts his money on more originality and innovation. Men are likely to search for watches, light-wash denim and corduroy, while women will continue to search for statement trainers, bamboo-structured handbags, as well as sustainable fashion, according to Pinterest. Here is a look at the trends you can invest in for a chic new year:
Khadi is Couture
The biggest designers have rediscovered the beauty of our heritage fabrics, says fashion entrepreneur Prasad Bidapa, and everyone — from Rohit Bal to Abraham & Thakore — is celebrating the fabric of freedom in not-so-humble avatars. From rough spun to the finest mulmul, expect to see the finest of khadis everywhere.
Indigo is the New Black
If India had a national colour, it would be indigo. Traditional block-printers in Jaipur use more of indigo than any other colour. This year, they introduced a green indigo, made possible with the addition of turmeric in their mix.
Indian Accent
Assomull says India-based label D’Ascoli, is selling well on international luxury fashion websites, because of its new-age use of traditional crafts. There’s a stronger integration of Indian craft into mainstream retail brands such as Raymond and Wills Lifestyle. With brands like Fendi coming to India to source crafts, wearing Indian accents should be your go-to fashion mantra in 2019.
Black, White & Grey
Sophisticated combinations of these neutrals popped up in many designer collections this year — from Abraham & Thakore to Rajesh Pratap Singh & Shahab Durazi.
Designer: Rajesh Pratap Singh; photographer: Jiten Agarwal
The Sari is the New LBD
Saris was rediscovered by trendy young ladies, who wore them with utter disregard for conventions and in the most unusual of ways, says Bidapa. “Blue jeans and churidars replaced petticoats; cholis morphed into skinny stretch tees or bikini bras and hemlines floated well above traditional lengths.” 2019 will see saris take the centre stage.
Designer: Princess Diya Kumari Foundation; photographer: Jiten Agarwal
Curation is Key
There is now a preference towards well-rounded retail experience over a simple purchase of a product, says Samyukta Nair, founder of Clove, a Mumbai-based multi-store brand. “There is a focus on curating and creating a heightened level of engagement.” Brands are actively moving away from only being associated with shopping in the traditional sense.”
The Art of Craft
India’s plethora of indigenous craft forms served as inspiration for many designers. Vidhi Singhania looked to Jaipur Blue Pottery while Sabyasachi, Swati & Sunaina and Sanjay Garg of Raw Mango worked with the Banarasi and the art of zari. Expect to see more of these brilliant inspirations.
Designer: Vidhi Singhania ; Photographer: Jiten Agarwal
Live Life in Full Colour
The Pride movement was an inspiration for rainbow dressing — be it at Halpern, Carolina Herrera and Valentino. Expect more colour in 2019. “Good fashion is always a reflection of the times – it picks up on social and political issues of the day,” says fashion journalist Sujata Assomull.
Shivan & Narresh
End of Celebrity Inspiration
The constant wave of obsession over how celebrities style themselves will change in 2019, says Palak Shah, founder and CEO of handloom brand Ekaya. “I see the younger generation borrowing heirloom pieces from their mothers and grandmothers, and revamping them with a contemporary twist.”
Sustainability
Sustainability will be a big influencer for purchasing decisions. The percentage of ecofriendly and recycled fibres & fabrics in retail brands will go up significantly as consumers demand more sustainable lifestyle choices, says Chandok of IMG Reliance.
Functional Garments
Features such as adjustable trouser length, hidden and roomy pockets, adjustable slit in dresses and anti-stain, antiwrinkle and easy care garments will become the norm. Year 2018 saw the reappearance of reversible clothing and this should continue to be a part of work-wear closets in 2019, too.
The Dandy March
Designer Kunal Rawal puts his money on tone-ontone, thread work and textures. “Personalisation is also something that men seek now. Another well-received pattern is the deconstructed silhouette that allows the outfit to be broken up and paired differently,” he says. In 2019, menswear will include experiments with asymmetry, drapes and tailoring.
Kunal Rawal
The End of Trend
Designers Abraham & Thakore foresee an end of trend in the digital era. As everything becomes more accessible due to technology, what people decide to follow will not be tied to wide-spread trends. Earlier, fashion trends at shows in major cities like Paris and Milan would have an impact on what is happening in India. Not anymore.
Twinning
Designers Shivan Bhatiya and Narresh Kukreja of Shivan & Narresh say twinning will remain a popular trend for celebratory occasions and decadent honeymoons.
Bohemian Bridal
In a refreshing twist, Bidapa says one can expect brides to wear flowers and wooden jewellery to their weddings. Shock-value experimentation will change perceptions about fashion dos and don’ts. More brides will also feel confident about wearing unconventional colours.
Designer: Bibi Russell; Photographer: Jiten Agarwal
Fine Tailoring
Sharp tailoring with focus on sleekness will be a trend. Puneet Mangla, cofounder of Perona, says, “As consumers make more thoughtful and mindful purchases, they will seek quality over quantity. Price matters, but it will not be the only differentiator, as it once was.”
SS Homme – Sarah & Sandeep
Stop Being Straight
There’s nothing straight about spring-summer 2019 — in the hems at least. Designer Ritu Kumar says with boho dresses here to stay, it can only mean more handkerchief hems, floaty hemlines and feminine cuts.
Shivan & Narresh
Pastel Perfect
This will be the year of sophisticated pastels or neutral pastels like pale pink, ivories, ecru and silvers, and greys and champagnes.
Gaurav Gupta
Designer Will Multitask
This year will see designers trying out multiple mediums and formats, says designer Manish Malhotra. Collaborations will be more widespread. “Dipping your fingers in many pies is here to stay, given the quick evolution of the world and its consumption of art, design and fashion,” he says.
Fashion Instagram
Vertical videos (IGTV) will continue to change the way people use Instagram for fashion. The fashion industry continues to lead the change in the inspiring and creative ways it uses videos on Instagram, and has also been quick to embrace IGTV. We saw brands, including Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Miu Miu, embrace IGTV from the start, taking advantage of the different ways to play and creating innovative, vertical-first content.” Instagram spokesperson.
With the rise of millennials and the emergence of omni-channel retail, many fashion retail brands are exploring various strategies to offer seamless experience to customers, like digitising of in-store retail experience.
TECH IN STYLE
In India, marketing trends suggest various clothing brands would adopt augmented reality to create digital stores as the results become more prominent. An Indian clothing brand launched a readyto-wear experience store in Bengaluru. According to initial trends, the company was able to generate more-than-average footfall and transaction value. Virtual reality is gaining traction in developing countries and is not only used as a marketing tool but also as a sales enabler. Artificial intelligence too is transforming various business processes in the form of ease of payments, providing product information, offering personalisation, etc.
TRIBE TAILING
As the preferences of the consumers change with the evolving retail environment, groups of consumers with specific characteristic sets have emerged. Customised targeting and offering to these groups or tribes is seen to be essential. Anil Talreja, partner, Deloitte India.
With inputs from Ayushi Gudwani, founder-CEO, FableStreet; Shyamala Ramanan, business head, Titan Company Ltd, and designers Payal Singhal, Raghavendra Rathore, Gaurav Gupta & Esha Amiin